www.jsamotors.com

So here it is finally an easier way for you 2G owners to get away from the dreaded crankwalk.

It seems this was the answer most of you wanted, so we found a solution on how to mate the 1G motor utilizing the 1G cam and crank sensor trigger assembly to the stock 2G computer.

Using this fix will also alleviate the weak timing that has always plagued the 2G's (4-6 degrees retarded on the 95-96, 97-up is very timing sensitive to airflow based on turbo size, but base idle timing can be adjusted)

There have been some questions regarding being able to use the tensioner tool. Because we are mating a 1G tensioner arm to a 2G engine mount, the holes for the tensioner tool no longer line up, the tensioner must now be compressed manually.

FOR A WIRING DIAGRAM CLICK HERE.

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You can see where the 2G mount must be trimmed to clear the 1G water pump, the only cutting involved.

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Here is the heart of the whole mod and what makes it all possible, a 1G cam sensor, mounted in the original location. Pictured here is a JDM Galant sensor, we like it because the wires can reach all the way to the engines drivers side, and no need to go hunting for a connector. Plus we have about 20 sitting on the shelf, same as a 1989-90 unit apparently.

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Sean's car the prototype 6-bolt bottom end with 2G head. Installed and running strong :-)

Special Thanks to Sean Caron and the DSM1Gina2G list for all their help in testing this modification. There are about 10 cars we have done personally running with this mod, and there are dozens of people across the USA trying it out right now.

After you've bolted it in and everything's running strong, do this!

Parts List
Compiled by Sean Caron with the help of the DSM1Gina2G list.
  • 1G CAS (91-92 Optical Effect, 93-94 Hall Effect)
  • 1G Oil Cooler (90-92 MD 157670 6bolt water cooled oil cooler)
  • 1G Water Pump
  • 1G Oil Pump/Front Case
  • 1G Timing Belt necessities
  • 2G Engine mount (modified) use 2G engine mount trimmed, with 1G tensioner arm
  • 1G Timing Belt Covers (modified)
  • 1G 90-92 6-bolt block (with whatever internals)
  • 1G 6-bolt Flywheel
  • 2G Starter Mounting bracket
  • 1G Water Pipe
  • 1G lower radiator hose
  • 1G Thermostat housing/ Water Neck
  • 1G 6-bolt oil pan Balance shafts (remove them or keep em, its up to you, we take them out)
  • 2G Alternator
  • 2G Power Steering Pump
  • 2G A/C 2G Belts

On a 95-96 car with stock 2G head

Swap Plugs 1 and 4 with 2 and 3 (order is not important)

On a 97+ car with stock 2G head

No plug swap or injector swap is necessary

For a complete 1G 6-bolt head/block

  • Swap 2G ISC with 1G Throttle body 1G Coil pack and bracket
  • 1G Head with internals
  • 1G Intake manifold with stock 2G knock sensor
  • Reuse 2G sensor including oil, water temp, etc.
  • 2G fuel rail to accommodate 2G Fuel Pressure Regulator
  • 2G MAP sensor either in Intake Mani or T-d off of Brake booster Vac line
  • Relocate power transistor mount

Special thanks to the whole DSM1Gina2G list members who have helped in providing the useful information needed to compile this detailed list, Sean Caron for providing the car and motivating me. Justin and Robert from the RRE crew who fought hard when they were cutting oil pump covers, no more; just bolt it in with hand tools.
Problems!
IF CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS OCCUR! TRY THIS:
(Blake Heisler's Fix for misfire Check Engine Lights (CELs) when putting a 1G Cam Angle Sensor (CAS) on a 2G)

Many people using the 1G CAS on a 2G head have been running into problems with misfire engine codes while at cruise. Many different things have been blamed for this and many different fixes have been attempted.

This fix will keep the ECU from looking for misfires at all. This is the criterion that must be met before the ECU will start to look for misfires:

1. 300+ seconds of steady state RPM less than 80% throttle position

2. Engine coolant temperature -10C or higher

3. Intake air temperature -10C or higher

4. Barometric pressure greater than 76 kPa

Now if we can get one of these values outside of the criteria the ECU won’t check for misfires. The value that would be the easiest to change would be the barometric pressure sensor. We’re going to add resistance to this value so that the ECU will see less barometric pressure than what there really is. This will also lean the car out so you should see a performance increase as well. Depending on the car and altitude you might need to add more fuel with an AFC.

So let’s get started, Parts needed:

A 10K potentiometer (although a 5K would probably do just fine). These are available at any electronics store, if you go to Radio Shack ask for a volume control knob because they don’t know what a potentiometer is

Wire strippers

Soldering iron

Step 1: Remove the access panel on the driver’s side of the center console. You should now see four plugs with a ton of wires going to them.

Step 2: Pull out the top plug, it’ll be the one that’s the hardest to reach. Locate wire #85. It’s orange with a white stripe.

Step 3: Cut the orange wire in half. Solder one end of the wire to the center peg of your potentiometer. Solder the other end to either the left or right leg, it doesn’t matter which. Turn your potentiometer all the way counter-clockwise.

Step 4: Plug the harness back in and start up the car. It should sound like it did before you did any modifications. If the idle is choppy or the car won’t run you turned your potentiometer the wrong way.

Step 5: Add resistance to the barometric pressure sensor by slowly turning the knob on the potentiometer. Drive the car around; if you get a CEL then add some more resistance. Keep doing this until you no longer get the CELs.

That’s it, special thanks to Marco for pioneering this mod and to all the guys on the DSM1Gina2G Yahoo group for all the discussion, ideas, etc.

-Blake Heisler

Information Source: www.magnusmotorsports.com